The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"

Media Blasting for 28 101 Scout

  • 22 Jun 2017 5:21 PM
    Message # 4913349

    I am a very happy new owner of a 28 101 Scout. I do not want to damage any parts, so I was wondering if anyone could recommend a media blasting material.


  • 23 Jun 2017 12:50 AM
    Reply # 4913727 on 4913349
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Blast nothing original paint, and if not, look for a fine glass beead at the coursest. Explore nut shells or similar for Aluminium, I am currently looking into this, so any advice/info shared would be gratefully received.



  • 23 Jun 2017 2:34 AM
    Reply # 4913796 on 4913349

    Tin pieces, tank, fenders and chain cover and so on are terne plated from factory. It's very thin and doesn't resist rusting very well without a paint coat over it. Some parts is surprisingly resistant to rust even on naked steel, for example the frame, fork, springs. I think that might be because the heat treatment when brazing together made a scale of hard bound rust resistant black iron over the clean metal. That scale is worn off when blasting with media and rust is forming very rapidly whenever paint is damaged in places.  To preserve that scale the most is the cause that I prefer chemical or electrolytic remove of paint and smaller patches of rust, of course wherever rust isn't a major issue or cover most of the part...If that's the case, then blasting is a excellent preparation for a primer...

    Blasting, at least with some media is not always a good preparation for solder, it can leave some kind of residue or coating that makes it hard to get the solder to bite, and it is quite difficult to remove! And blasting do micropeen over microscopic rust pockets that can make solder difficult to wet over...

    Last modified: 23 Jun 2017 2:49 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 23 Jun 2017 1:11 PM
    Reply # 4914435 on 4913349

    I like baking soda for aluminum parts.  I've also used walnut shells before on painted surfaces, but I think I would have been better off, time wise, using chemicals!  Scotchbrite pad with WD40 on oxidized aluminum and steel.

  • 24 Jun 2017 12:51 AM
    Reply # 4915179 on 4913349


    Do you think there is a danger of water leaking into the frame during electrolytic removal? I think this is also the best method as it does not damage anything other than rust and paint, but I wouldn't want to have water leak into the interior of the frame. 

  • 24 Jun 2017 10:49 PM
    Reply # 4916349 on 4913349

    Not really, the water should evaporate when you turn and handle and treat the frame and by the time it is painted and assembled it should be dry. Usually the inlets for water is small or sealed (covered by the head bearing for example) so during ordinary use, rain and washing, tube inside rust is not a big issue. 

    Sometimes there is small drilled holes at the low points, mainly to let hot gases out when brazing together at manufacture. I keep those open if/or when I find any. The danger is standing water and storing it improperly. 

    I trust you avoid storing it in a damp cellar, or a dirt floor barn in a mountainous wooded area with leaking roof, or close to a sea or ocean...

    Restoring an already heavy rusted frame or fork should be done with reflection, caution and suspicion! just because it has been stored improperly. It might be necessary to make thorough inspection even with a snake camera inside the tubes. Double caution if a rusted tube is bent or cracked. A lot, in fact most of a tube strength is in the surface, both inside and outside. A bike frame or fork is engineered with minimum weight in mind and rely heavily on the integrity of the parts involved.

    Last modified: 24 Jun 2017 11:55 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 25 Jun 2017 1:59 PM
    Reply # 4916839 on 4913349

    Thanks to everyone for your input and recommendations. I really appreciate it.

  • 02 Jul 2017 11:02 AM
    Reply # 4928679 on 4913349

    Hydroblasting there is no harsh erosion of existing metal. It Also provides a non abrasive finish, which is relatively smooth to touch.  

  • 04 Jul 2017 12:46 AM
    Reply # 4930878 on 4913349

    I obtained amazing results on smaller parts using electrolytic removal. Based on my research, the process is widely used in conservation and may actually return some iron back to the undamaged metal part. I left my smaller rusted parts in for 24 hours, and while still pitted, the metal looks great. I still may need to blast with walnut shells or soda for even smaller parts. Anybody have an opinion on POR 15 for recoating?

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