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mind the gap!

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  • 17 Feb 2021 4:46 PM
    Message # 10110553

    In fitting the rear fender I've got a gap between the seat spring mounting plate and the fender, and I can't see how to get rid of it!  I recall reading here that this area of fit can be problematic, and indeed my fender had a blown out hole where it was bolted to the spring plate.  I can't see how to move the fender forward, the only thing I can think of trying is to alter the angle of the battery tray tabs down low where the fender mounts to it... but I don't think that'll do it.  Any ideas are welcome!  Thanks.

    3 files
  • 18 Feb 2021 11:14 AM
    Reply # 10113406 on 10110553
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Slightly longer bolt and a nice wide spacer looks better than a couple of fender washers. Not unusual. Slight welding may shrink radius slightly.


  • 19 Feb 2021 3:44 PM
    Reply # 10117646 on 10110553

    1/4” spacer

    1 file
  • 19 Feb 2021 8:17 PM
    Reply # 10118201 on 10110553

    Thanks Tim and Bruce!  I'm understanding that a gap in this area is not uncommon.  I've got some snowcat track rubber belting that I can cut to fit and fill the gap, and I may do that in the end.  I know it left the factory without that gap, but perhaps it was always a poor fit and destined to fail...I can close the gap with a ratchet strap around the seat post and blocks inside the fender, but after releasing the tension on the strap it relaxes back to the gap!

  • 20 Feb 2021 8:14 AM
    Reply # 10118862 on 10110553
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Don't want it under too much stress Harry, or its only going to spit and crack again. With the fender struts and the bottom mounts it should be plenty rigid, so your idea might work perfectly.

  • 21 Feb 2021 11:21 PM
    Reply # 10123586 on 10110553

    I would check and adjust the ridge arc of the fender, just a minor shrinkage or dent of the fender somewhere along the edge may make the gap you have there. Make a cardboard template of the front fender ridge, front and rear should have the same bow. The fender is welded at the edge so i suspect some shrinking may have happened, expanding the edge with hammer and dolly may fix that.

    The fender should fit without gap, or at least shimmed, tension at that seat plate bolt will crack the fender in time.

    Last modified: 21 Feb 2021 11:47 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 25 Feb 2021 2:01 PM
    Reply # 10138968 on 10110553

    Thank-you all for the input, I felt this was an issue that was rather common.  I've got to rework the fender area with the inset for the chain guard (probably a catastrophic chain failure at one point in's all broken out with a lousy patch fit in) so I'll be trying Carl Erik's idea of reworking the curve a bit so that it conforms to the front fender curve and see if that helps!

  • 26 Feb 2021 8:55 AM
    Reply # 10142128 on 10110553
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Harry, I usually repair splits in fenders by bronze welding/brazing, using a piece of sheet metal for larger repairs or a washer for split mounting holes. Bronze causes less distortion as it has a lower melting point, and retains flexibility, so cracks are less likely to reappear. Mind you, I am not a professional sheet metal guy, but thats what the old welders did when I was a youngster. 

  • 26 Feb 2021 3:54 PM
    Reply # 10143411 on 10110553

    Thanks Tim, I am indeed familiar with those "old welders"!  When I opened my motor I found they'd been in there already.... flywheel and cam side case had been welded!  Notice the brass shim in the flywheel taper... looks like it may have run like that!

    2 files
  • 27 Feb 2021 8:05 AM
    Reply # 10145816 on 10110553
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Ha, not the kind of old welders I was thinking about, Harry. How did you fix it ? Might get away with just drilling the end of the cracks and tapping an aluminum plug in . 

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