hey Scotty, hows things ?
If the bearing races are pitted, you will always have notchy steering. If they are clean and a matching set, the best way to check if they are good is to but the balls in each set on the bench and apply downward pressure. A good matching set will have virtually no sideways play when light hand pressure is applied vertically. As a matter of interest, you can sit down wth a pile of original races and try 20 or 30 combinations before finding a good matched set, possibly ground as sets ?? ANyone here with bearing manufacture experience able to answer that ?
Easiest way to install balls in fork and keep them there during assembly is to grease the top and bottom set of balls heavily. Bottom set on the bottom race on the fork, and top set in the cup in the steering head. The carefully start threading the top race cone nut onto the fork stem, and once the thread is started, locate the nut on the bearings. Wind the fork into place by screwing this thread down, keeping the weight of the fork on the top bearing set, that way you will not lose all the top ball bearings down the steering head neck :)
Some pretty nice complete sets of races were being made in Sweden, I think Randy has them in stock if yours are shot.
Ideal adjustment, when fully assembled with front wheel in place etc, you should be able to tap the wheel lightly with your hand and it should slowly move to full lock by itself. If it sticks, it may be too tight, and the bearings will get damaged, if it slams to full lock too easily, its too loose and may affect handling adversely.
You will probably find that the top bearing may loosen itself off a touch at first use, and all nuts will need nipping up. Bear in mind also that the handlebars also act as the top triple tree, to the nuts thru the bars to the dash panel need to be TIGHT , otherwise the whole front end will be sloppy. The top domed locking nut also has a tendency to come loose easily, a knurled locking washer is a good idea here.
