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TRANSMISSION BEARING UPGRADE ,10D

  • 13 Dec 2019 3:50 PM
    Message # 8268570

    Hey Guys, I see back in Forum there was a discussion on trans bearings. On page 10D of Shop Manual it says to use an upgrade radial/thrust bearing [because old style is weaker], which I purchased. Bearing tech said this bearing must go in a certain way to work correctly.Since bearing construction is offset. The side labeled THRUST must face direction that thrust is coming from depending on direction from thrust is thru clutch or trans gears,he would not commit. Has anybody installed one of these bearings with success and which way was it installed? Bearing tech said it would fail if not installed in correct manner. I replied with same info on earlier bearing thread but wasn't sure if any one would see it in time.  thanks again!

  • 15 Dec 2019 8:34 PM
    Reply # 8289836 on 8268570
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Hey Rex, ignore that last post of mine, getting my bearings confuddled.

    Tim

  • 16 Dec 2019 7:38 AM
    Reply # 8294312 on 8268570

    Rex, saw in the previous post you bought a 7207 W. From what I can read up, the ball bearing angular contact in that one is 40 degrees and it is totally unsuitable in the gearbox for reasons I explained in earlier topic. The clutch basket will rattle and wobble with that bearing installed. Especially when the axial play at the mainshaft increases with heat or wear.

    SKF has a series of 70- bearings (AC series) with 25 degree contact angle, for example 7207 ACD/P4A. it is expensive super precision but still unsuited since it increase radial play very dramatically when unloaded in the non thrust direction.

    Angular contact bearings should or must be installed in pairs mounted opposite each other with a near zero interference fit on a steel shaft. In our gearboxes, since the main shaft has to be floating, mounted with a 0.010" axial play, the bearing has no real support opposite the thrust direction. The original Fafnir has a 15 degree angular contact, still can not take load in the opposite direction but at sideshift does not increase radial play as much as the 25 deg. angle bearing, let alone the totally unsuitable 40 deg. bearing.

    It is not recommendable to mount the mainshaft without axial play, it will wear and ruin the thrust washers (at one end or both ends of the axle splines, depending on years) and wear the thin ball bearing at the sprocket end in short order. 

    I recommend to install a plain deep groove ball bearing shielded on both sides to protect it from gear shards and clutch residue. 6207 2RS. It keeps the radial play very small at all times. Time has proven it can take the side thrust from clutch use, very well for a long time. 

    By the way, the thrust direction is against the clutch basket since when you engage the clutch, the clutch is pulled outward with the worm on the cover. When the clutch is disengaged and normal, there is no thrust force on the bearing.

    Last modified: 17 Dec 2019 6:29 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 18 Dec 2019 5:26 PM
    Reply # 8320698 on 8268570

    Thanks Carl-Erik , I got the 6207 2RS bearing & installed it this morning. 

    Also I was reading the 101 shop manual  as I am ready to put together the top end on my 45".I see on page 12C about modifying the 'G' clip for the wrist pins to install pistons.It says to cut the legs off G clip to look like 'C' clip. Is this still a  good procedure to use? I just want to make sure of the book notes since there was confusion on the trans gear upgrade in my book.

    thanks again, Rex


  • 19 Dec 2019 10:45 AM
    Reply # 8327954 on 8268570
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Hi Rex, I don't. I do ensure that the G tab part is clear of ring part , so that it cannot contact the end of the wrist pin and lift out.

    Glad you got the plain radial business sorted.

    Please keep running thru any anomalies you find in the Manual, there are certainly some parts which could do with updating.

  • 19 Dec 2019 11:23 PM
    Reply # 8333304 on 8268570

    I don't let the legs remain, I cut the clip like a C but then I have to modify the piston a bit by drilling/grinding a trench into the clip groove so I can put a small tool in and pry the clip out of the groove. Pretty normal on modern small engines. There is several different system and methods to lock the pin in place. 

    - subject to a new topic! -

    Last modified: 22 Dec 2019 1:47 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 21 Dec 2019 5:56 PM
    Reply # 8349657 on 8268570
    Anonymous

    What about a chamfer on the wrist pin itself, to help locate and secure the C clips in situ, where less likelihood of premature escape exists.  There are many barrels that bare scars from clips which have come adrift, allowing the wrist pin to float laterally, gouging the cylinder wall.

    Last modified: 24 Dec 2019 10:34 PM | Anonymous
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