The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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101 bulbs/electrical questions

  • 27 Dec 2019 9:21 AM
    Message # 8401425

    Trying to determine the proper bulbs I should be using for my Scout.  The dash light and tail light bulbs I would assume would be T63.  I know the headlamp bulb would be a two filament bulb, just not sure of the bulb number, whether it was pre-focused or not, etc.  

    After taking my headlamp reflector out I noticed that the screw that goes into the back of the headlight shell appears to be a screw to adjust the focal point for the light.  If that is how it is supposed to work I must have something wrong, as when I tighten the screw it just pulls the reflector back with more force against the headlight shell.

    Last but not least, I assume the magneto supplies the power for spark and the battery is not used at all for ignition, since in theory there would be a switch to turn the battery power off to kill the engine.  Mine has an ignition kill switch (looks identical to the horn button) mounted by the left hand grip.  I hope that is correct.  Sorry for the babbling, but I am new to the 101, maybe I need to see if I can find a manual or something  :)

  • 28 Dec 2019 3:10 AM
    Reply # 8404605 on 8401425

    The screw at the rear of the headlight is to adjust the focal point and light pattern and not intended to screw tight! The bulb is not pre-focused so you need to adjust the focus against a wall. 

    The bulb should not touch the reflector, the bulb socket is supposed to slide in or out in the reflector socket. The Motolamp for 30-31 has a spring (original is conical) on the screw between the bulb socket adjusting arm and reflector bracket and I am not sure the bullet headlight has that. 

    I am only used to the ugly Bosch HerringCan headlamp on my bike. So I have to say I am not entirely certain the bulb recommendation apply to the bullet headlight and Motolamp for 30-31 They also have different part numbers in the parts book.

    But I think they are same and in that case he bulbs are normal bulbs fond in mopeds, scooters, vintage snowmobiles and such light vehicles equipped with 6 Volt systems. Since the generator only puts out some 35 watts the lights have to be weak. Only 20/20 watts (or 15/15 if you use 10W rear) for the headlight and 5 or 10 Watt rear.

    It is possible to use a brighter bulb (25/25W) but that might discharge the battery slowly when running with lights on for a longer time, and when the voltage drops the light gets dimmer despite the generator charging at full capacity (and getting hotter than necessary).

    The headlight socket type is called BA20D in Europe and I found Tungsram has a number 1511 for the 15/15W. The location tabs is at equal heights but different widths in the Herring Can. 

    The taillight socket is called BA15S and Tungsram number 2639 for 10 Watt.

    I don't have the instrument light at hand but I think it is the same socket as the tail light BA15S but it is 5W and that has Tungsram number 2615. The light cover gets awful hot so if you can find a 3W light or LED light for that, it is better. 

    US have a different and (to me strange) bulb numbering system.

    Now when you are running all lights on, the generator is running at max capacity and very little or no current is running to the battery. The Amperemeter is flickering around zero when keeping the revs up on the engine and turning to discharge when the revs drop. With all the lights off and when the battery is fully charged, to compensate for internal losses the amperemeter should be reading some 1-2 Amps with a smaller battery and maybe 3-4 Amps charging with a larger battery capacity.

    With all the lights on, the remaining 5 watts that the generator is capable of charging is easily disappearing in the resistance at connections and harness wires. So you need to keep the electrical system in very good order, use heavy gauge wires and keep the connections tight and clean (soldered).

    It is best to fit as a 'large' or high capacity battery as possible that fits in the battery box in order to have as big discharge buffer as possible. Original is 16 AH and the miniscule 6V batteries found in some small vehicles will strain the charging system more than with a bigger battery because the constant discharge/charge going on with a small battery.   

    But most important is the generator regulator. In pair with poor connections I feel that is the main source for electrical problems and the archaic cut-out system with manual adjustment of the third brush on the DU5 doesn't suit modern more sensitive batteries that has thinner lead plates internally, is just inadequate and should be tossed on the heap for a electronic regulator and easy reconstruction to a 2 brush system. I recommend that to save a lot of headaches.

    Your assumption is right, the magneto supplies the power for spark and the battery is not used at all for ignition. But normally the engine is killed with the exhaust valve lifter, either rod through the tank or the lever behind the oil pump. The kill button on the handlebar is a nice option. Standard on all Indian Fours and I think standard on sport bars.

    Last modified: 28 Dec 2019 4:25 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 03 Aug 2022 3:12 PM
    Reply # 12872108 on 8401425
    John Lindberg (Administrator)

    I'm going to reopen this topic and see if anybody can help identify the proper 6V bulb for my dash light (photo attached - I've never had a bulb for it).

    My 25/25W headlight bulb (photo attached as well) appears to be a BA-20D style.  Looks like they're available from scooter suppliers.  Anybody have a good experience with a LED version?

    Thanks as always for sharing your expertise.

    John, who is now actually riding and tuning his Scout...

    2 files
  • 04 Aug 2022 1:50 AM
    Reply # 12872606 on 8401425

    I use LED   in both tail and headlight as Marker lights .    (my Generator is mounted  but  no belt installed )  we do not ride at night, and if we were Caught out  the LED  would get us home with ease  .

  • 04 Aug 2022 7:16 AM
    Reply # 12872753 on 8401425
    John Lindberg (Administrator)

    Andrew Meislin provided this info about the dash light - T63 bulb:

    #63 Miniature Bulb Ba15S Base - 7.0 Volt 0.63 Amp 4.41 Watt G-6 Single Contact Bayonet (Ba15S) Base, 3.0 MSCP, C-6 Filament Design. 1.44' (36.58mm) Maximum Overall Length (M.O.L.), 0.75' (19.05mm) Maximum Outer Diameter (M.O.D.), 0.75' (19.05mm) Light Center Length (L.C.L.). 1,000 Average Rated Hours.

  • 26 Nov 2022 9:52 AM
    Reply # 13003304 on 8401425
    John Lindberg (Administrator)

    Wanted to update this thread regarding a LED headlight source.  I was running a 6V BA20D bulb in my headlight - same as in my 1966 BMW.  Euro Motoelectrics sells a 6V LED for $13.75 that fits nicely in my BMW, but is too long for my Scout.

    Paul Benassi was able to source a 6V LED headlight that fits in the BA20D receptacle, and is short enough to fit in my Scout's shell.  On top of that, the LEDs are mounted on wood, which could be cut even shorter if needed.  I've attached a couple of photos - the increase in brightness is shocking.

    Paul charged $60 shipped.  He can be reached at pbenassi@comcast.net.

    3 files
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