The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"
 

1931 uncovered after 30+ years

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  • 14 Jul 2017 11:14 PM
    Message # 4977352

    hello everyone 

    I am new here but I just wanted to say hello and show some pics of my 1931 scout. It has been sitting dormant for over 30 years. I will be bringing her back to life as soon as I get her shipped from CT to NC where I now live. 

    I am not to sure how deep of a restoration I will be doing on it but right now I'm just trying to get familiar with how everything works so I can see what needs attention. 

    Here is a link to my Flickr album with some pics. 

    https://flic.kr/s/aHskZqF95g

    I have allot to learn about this bike. :)

    Using Wordpress now at

    djqsrv.wordpress.com

    Last modified: 26 Oct 2017 7:08 PM | Daniel Quinn
  • 15 Jul 2017 2:18 AM
    Reply # 4977496 on 4977352

    Congrats to a really nice bike! It looks like you don't need to tamper much with it before first ride! other than standard checkups, points and valve clearence. Points has a tendency to oxidize without use so just one pull only, with a points file, is a way to eliminate trouble with that. Sandpaper/emery cloth is a no-no.

    However I would remove the oil pump and the ventilation tube from the engine just to make a checkup that the pump is turning properly, and of course wash through it with kerosene. That could be done at the same time with the engine internals also, first empty the crankcase from old oil, then pressure wash with kerosene or diesel through the pinion shaft, the hole is open when the pump is removed. That could be controversial with some individuals, but I am of that opinion that crud will get loose at some point or another so I want it removed, and that is better to flush out when the engine is not running. Fill up the crankcase via the hole for the ventilation tube on the cam case, in order to clean out the cam compartment. And kick through for a while. Empty the crankcase and check for strange things or rust colour in the run off. 

    Fill fresh oil through the same hole so the cams get some oil for the first start. Empty the oil from the crankcase after the first start and fill new oil at the level plug on the crankcase left side. A gasket at the vent tube flange can make the thin vent valve hang up, so no gasket, only a small amount of gasket cement is sufficient. Many riders has found the engine having less oil leaks when discarding the valve plate and fit a modern PCV valve.

    Clutch plates has a bad habit to stick together after a lengthy standstill. 30 years ago King clutch or KIWI clutch wasn't available so probably originals are fitted. Frankly I think new friction plates is such an improvement from originals so I wouldn't bother use them old ones at all, I would buy and change for new plates and springs right away!

    Old petrol can go gummy and cause some problems. I would clean out the bowl and at the same time check valve condition, a bad valve is trouble, and an old cork or plastic float is trouble. Brass ones are heavy and wear on the valve more than needed. I prefer floats that is made by Tom Cotten as he has done extensive research on materials that cope with all sorts of petrol.

    Most of the clutch and gearbox grub is collected in the bottom of the gearbox. If the engine is restored and not run, as it looks like on your pictures, not much would be found there but still a wash through with kerosene can flush out some interesting stuff. When/if you change clutch plates, through the gearbox bottom plug you can insert a small L shaped tube where you might pressure wash the internals with kero if you fancy that. 

    I use an old deep oven pan as a collector and line it with a cloth of an old sheet. when I am finished and lift up the sheet from the pan through the kero or oil in the pan, I can easily inspect the debris. 

    Bleeding of the oil pump is important! It takes longer than anticipated, let clear air free oil run thro for a good while before you close up the bleed hole with the screw. I always use Locktite 561 on oil and gas fittings. And other Locktite products on every single thread except headbolts and exhaust nuts... Makes me feel important! :-) Good luck and happy trails!

    Last modified: 15 Jul 2017 4:03 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 15 Jul 2017 4:37 PM
    Reply # 4978057 on 4977352

    Thanks for all the great info!

    I originally had all kinds of thoughts about a full frame up restoration with a complete repaint back to a factory original color for 31. The more I think abt it the more I am inclined to just clean it up, get her running and enjoy it as is. 

    I never thought of pressure washing. I was thinking I would need to pull the motor and tranny apart to clean her out. 

    There is a few things I am worried about though. The compression release arm moves very freely back and forth. I would have thought there would be a spring or something holding tension on it. Is it supposed to be free like this or is there a problem there?  

    Also a very simple question. 1st is forward, then neutral one back followed by second and third as the stick gets closer to me wile sitting on the bike. Is that right?  I know my grandfathers chiefs were all 1st forward but someone else told me the 101 scout was first was way back toward me. Can someone shed some light on this for me?  


    Thanks in advance for the help. 

  • 15 Jul 2017 8:12 PM
    Reply # 4978207 on 4977352

    Hi Daniel, nice looking bike! I can only dream of the day when my '28 is ready to ride.

    As to your question about the shift pattern, the Indian Riders' Instruction book for 1928 says the "gear shift lever has four positions: low, neutral, intermediate and high. The rearmost position is low gear; next forward is neutral"  This is different than my '48 Chief, where 1st is all the way forward. But since the 101 shift lever is directly connected to the trans tower, it makes sense that high gear would be forward, away from the rider's thigh. At least, that's what I'm thinking, given that I have a long way to go before riding mine.

    Good luck with getting yours back on the road. It looks like it was carefully stored, which should be a huge help.

    Dave 

  • 16 Jul 2017 4:25 AM
    Reply # 4978415 on 4977352

    Think of your bike as a long time project, you will enjoy it for a long time and have all the time to make changes and improvements to your liking, later. Trust me on this, the real joy is in riding a 101! The joy of waving to others with the right hand makes you feel a bit different, a member of the real Indian biker community. The joy of shifting to the next gear and feel when the cogs slip in, lift the foot and sense the bike surge away with a twist of the wrist to the accompany of the characteristic Indian rumble from the exhaust. The joy of swing it through a curve (if you lean forward, the bike finds its way through the curve all by itself!) or thrash it a bit on a gravel road and feel the bike float on the surface but respond precise to your corrections..wow..

    The comp.release is just loose until the tiny cam inside lifts the shanks of the exhaust valve rockers, not until then you feel the resistance. The lever should be still in the resting position (against the special tall cam cover screw) and have a gap until engaged, the lever can be put wrong on the key so then the cam rests on the lifters most of the time so the lever is jumping up and down when the engine is running.

    Last modified: 16 Jul 2017 4:37 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 16 Jul 2017 7:50 AM
    Reply # 4978543 on 4977352
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Nice looking bike Daniel, good job. In my humble opinion, leave as is, check it over , recomission it and ride it . 

    Pop into shop in Torrington with it if you are around NW CT

    Tim

  • 17 Jul 2017 11:40 PM
    Reply # 4981786 on 4977352

    Daniel Quinn - If I may add, that machine is an absolute marvel.  I notice that you, or someone, had stored this 101 on a timber section, covered by a layer of carpet.  Additionally, the bike was also covered with what appears to be cotton sheets.  This practice, has prevented much rust and corrosion, as the cotton, absorbs the moisture and traps the dust/contaminants, preventing them from settling on the bike and etching into various surfaces.  The timber underlay, has effectively insulated the bike, from the cold, even colder winter concrete slab, sageguarding against further deterioration.  Although garaged, there is a great deal of humidity (water vapour) in the air, which the above protection has shielded the bike from.  The preservation afforded by these safeguards, has prevented much deterioration.  Members should take a page from Mr Quinn's book, and adopt this worthy storage procedure.  As always Carl Renquist, your advice is very well received and appreciated by many, and we thank you for time and efforts of assistance.

  • 18 Jul 2017 7:30 PM
    Reply # 4983467 on 4977352

    Thanks Danny for the nice words. Much appreciated!

  • 14 Sep 2017 11:18 PM
    Reply # 5261608 on 4977352

    Just an update. I am heading up to CT this weekend and will be bringing the bike home on Monday. 

    Can't wait to get started on it. 

    Pictures of its journey will follow. 

  • 18 Sep 2017 12:32 PM
    Reply # 5266429 on 4977352

    Added some pics of the trip to my flickr.  It was a fun drive  :)

    https://flic.kr/s/aHskZqF95g


    I did notice that I am missing the pulley for the generator.  Its the one on the tranny case not the one on the genny.  it also looks like there is a special retaining bolt/washer.  can anyone help point me in the right direction as to where I might be able to get the parts?  I would be ok with repro parts for a pulley.  

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