Mike, I wonder if your casting is like the one on my '29 frame, you can access the pin from the backside?  

I had the advantage of not having to worry about paint so I could use some heat (not red hot), and then with the set screw out and the rear access I could introduce a lot of penetrating oil (over a few days), then put the heat to it and use a drift on the back side to drive the pin out.  Lots of strikes but didn't require an especially big hammer!

If the pin is still a tight fit in the frame, you could shim/bush the kickstarter, altho the forces on the kicker may make this a short term fix. 

The pin in the frame is a serious press fit, about 0.0025". The existing pin can be driven out from the rear, after removal of the grub screw. Unusual to find external diameter worn and not have the pin loose in the housing, tbh. I usually have to ream the housing in steps to remove wear and belling, and then turn up a sample pin to a perfect fit. Then once I have correct dimensions, make a new pin oversize that dimension. Support the frame from behind, and drive the new pin in , needs a small sledge hammer drive home tightly, using a a heavy drift turned to fit and  protect the pin snugly.

If your pin is not loose in the housing, and the housing is not worn, check the dimensions of the old pin you have drifted out, and make the new one to match, but check the dimensions carefully, as previously stated, there is a lot of force applied thru the kicker and pin, and a loose fit will soon start moving around. The grub screw is not enough to hold the pin in place.

" Safest is to bush the kicker."

Wise words indeed. If the pin is solid in the frame, that is gonna be by far the best option. If it was me, I would rather rebush the kicker once a year than knock the pin out. I have had to repair cracked castings a couple of times, and its not easy.