The 101 Association, Inc.
For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
"You can't wear out an Indian Scout"
 

Side clearence on intermediate gear/transmission

  • 08 Feb 2016 5:34 AM
    Message # 3806363

    Visby 8/2-2016

    Sweden

    Hi,

    Cant find any information about side clearence for intermediate gear on my Indian Scout 1922/37.

    Is there any info about that somewhere?


    Regards

    Jorgen Fritz

  • 09 Feb 2016 9:53 AM
    Reply # 3808790 on 3806363

    On the KIWI site in the tech section you have a very good assembly instruction. Relevant specifications can be used for the Scout box.

    http://www.kiwiindian.com/#!transmission-3-speed-installation/c2jt

    There is 3-4 things that I don't agree with in the instruction. One thing is the lockwasher he is using for the clutch basket nut inside the gearbox. He is using a finger lockwasher and I think the fingers are way to narrow to be effective.

    I like to use a full circle lock washer where I can fold a larger portion over the nut. And I am meticulous to fold it close to the hexagon corner at the end where it has the largest momentum for preventing the nut from loosen up. At the other end I can leave a little gap where I more easily can get a grip with a screwdriver and pry the fold open at disassembly.

    In addition I drop a small drop of penetrating green locktite on both sides of the lockwasher immediately before I tighten up the nut. Some of it ends up on the threads.. Penetrating green is soft setting.

    Another thing I don't agree with is that he whacks the nut with a blunt cold chisel. I use proper tools specially made and can if I want, torque so hard that I strip the threads! I can not see the benefit of whacking the nut and risk damage the hexagons so I get problems later with fitting the tool or chip the nut. I tap the nut a little anyhow when I fold the lockwasher.

    Well, there's still another thing we don't agree on...I am not that meticulous when it comes to the side play for the cluster gear, I think it is absolute minimum with a sideplay of .010. and can accept up to the double.

    I would strongly recommend to use a 2RS bearing, double sealed rubber sealed bearing because the bearing doesn't need additional lubrication other than what's in there from the factory and the oil in the gearbox is fouled with gear shavings and clutch debris that will wear the bearing in short order.

    On the Yahoo site for the 101 club, you can find in the photo section a couple of albums about the gearbox assembly (Transmission and Transmission 2). Read the comments, you have to click on a tiny symbol on the picture.

  • 10 Feb 2016 7:44 AM
    Reply # 3810769 on 3806363
    Deleted user

    Side clearance on the intermediate gear in the primary should be set at around 0.008-0.012" . Less will cause overheating and possible rapid wear or seizure, a few more may not be too much of a problem, but a large clearance may cause a harmonic oscillation at certain revs leading to a rough chattering of the gear train at speeds over about 35 miles an hour. Its a time consuming business to set it up correctly if badly worn, you need to assemble off the bike ,clamp cases tightly all round and check end float with a feeler gauge. Beware particularly if the   internal cast in spacer pieces away from the external gasket faces are worn down, as when you tighten the fasteners the cases will distort in the middle around the idler/intermediate  gear causing it to nip up. 

     Hope this helps,

                    Tim

  • 11 Feb 2016 1:18 AM
    Reply # 3812337 on 3806363

    Jeezzz! I was blabbing about the cluster gear in the gearbox, sorry!

    I got the glasses I'm using at a down priced stall on a flea market..OK??

  • 12 Feb 2016 7:15 AM
    Reply # 3818192 on 3806363
    Deleted user

    Carl-Erik, you just read his mind, he was getting to the trans next, so you got him already primed :)

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