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For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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Blue Smoke after Tappet adjustment

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  • 29 Jul 2017 8:45 PM
    Message # 5002302
    Deleted user

    My exhaust tappets were a bit tight, so i adjusted them back to spec and now i have a huge blue cloud out the exhaust after it warms up.  I'm struggling to figure how loosening my exhaust tappets could cause oil to get up into the combustion chamber.  

    Any thought before i start to dig into it deeper?


    Thanks for any insight.


    Bart

    Northern California


  • 30 Jul 2017 12:44 AM
    Reply # 5002409 on 5002302

    My thoughts would be  Oil  bleed down to crankcase and  just happend to coincide  with your Tappit adjustment  ,   Check oil level in crankcase   and drain off excess at top screw  (level Plug)

  • 30 Jul 2017 12:28 PM
    Reply # 5002798 on 5002302
    Deleted user

    Thanks Philip.  That was my first thought too, but when i checked, only about an oz flowed out.  I pulled plugs and front is wet and rear is wet and full of oil.  

    Any other thoughts before i start disassembling?  I'm thinking rings.  I have a leak down tester with adapters, anyone ever done a leak down test on a scout before i do?

  • 31 Jul 2017 12:39 AM
    Reply # 5003345 on 5002798
    Bart McMurry wrote:

    Thanks Philip.  That was my first thought too, but when i checked, only about an oz flowed out.  I pulled plugs and front is wet and rear is wet and full of oil.  

    Any other thoughts before i start disassembling?  I'm thinking rings.  I have a leak down tester with adapters, anyone ever done a leak down test on a scout before i do?


    Oil  leaking from oil tank to Fuel tank    ?  
  • 31 Jul 2017 4:39 AM
    Reply # 5003492 on 5002798
    Bart McMurry wrote:

    Thanks Philip.  That was my first thought too, but when i checked, only about an oz flowed out.  I pulled plugs and front is wet and rear is wet and full of oil.  

    Any other thoughts before i start disassembling?  I'm thinking rings.  I have a leak down tester with adapters, anyone ever done a leak down test on a scout before i do?


  • 01 Aug 2017 3:12 PM
    Reply # 5006756 on 5002302
    Deleted user

    good idea.  hadn't thought of that.  will check it out.

  • 01 Aug 2017 3:23 PM
    Reply # 5006772 on 5002302
    Deleted user

    follow up:  gas looked clear.  I am going to drain the 15w-50 that i put in and try some 15w-60 that i have to see if that does anything.  I've run HD 60 before and it was very thick.  

    Not sure if its covering up a larger issue though.

  • 02 Aug 2017 7:24 AM
    Reply # 5007909 on 5002302

    A leak-down-check is excellent test but the first result is normally just used as a norm for consecutive tests during the engine life span. The first test is best done just after run-in of a freshly rebuilt engine. 

    Every engine is different even if a as low percentage leak as possible is sought after. 1-2 % is difficult to get in a modern engine and 10% doesn't have to mean the engine is shot. It is when you find big differences between test occasions or cylinders that it starts to be a matter of concern. 

    It also depends on a couple of reasons, what input pressure is used, the meter, time span of reading, warm or cold, if oil is in the cylinders, valves must be tight, and stuff like that so consistent at test occation with the same meter and same input pressure is very important in order to get a comparable result. 

    Hearing is important, listen to how much and where the air is leaking from, crankcase ventilation, intake, exhaust.

    Last modified: 02 Aug 2017 7:47 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 02 Aug 2017 7:51 AM
    Reply # 5007964 on 5002302
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    try sae 50 for air cooled engines, or even a lucas type break in oil to help bed the rings in. Morris and Spectra also offer break in oils for classic vehicles. Jorgen Sundberg at Grevbo recommends using an esther additive for the first 1500 miles. 

    Depending on cylinders and type of hone of the bore, the break in period is often critical, a finished bore with a 280-380 grit hone and cast iron rings may take 600 miles to bed in. Wrong oils or over revving/heatong may cause glazed bores and the rings may not bed. Look to the guy who built your engine for advice on this. 

    Your thoughts Carl-Erik? 

  • 02 Aug 2017 12:22 PM
    Reply # 5008672 on 5002302
    Deleted user

    Thanks for all the input.  My thinking is that loosening the exhaust valve lash back to spec isn't causing the blue smoke, but is coincident to what the true issue may be, which is oil slipping past the rings.  Bike idles fine and runs great, with no stumbling, but as it warms up, blue smoke starts to come out and on revving, it pours out the back.  Plugs look to be wet with oil, and piston tops are black.  Oil level wan't too high when i drained the level screw.  

    Carl/Tim, seems like i'm at the point of warming it up and pulling the heads to get a better look at things do you agree?

    Best,

    Bart

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