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Carburator

  • 16 Aug 2017 2:02 PM
    Message # 5032693

    According to the shop manual on page 8B  should the height of float to top of the carburetor float House 7/16''. How high should be the fuel level below the top of the float House?

  • 17 Aug 2017 5:36 PM
    Reply # 5034535 on 5032693

    I did a test like this: With the bowl assembled with valve and float but off the carburetor, I plugged the bottom hole with a rubber plug and slowly filled the bowl with water. The level rose and some water was leaking past the valve and out the inlet nipple. When the float rose to put enough pressure on the valve to shut it tight and water stopped to drip from the inlet, I measured the level in center of the bowl. It was 18mm from the rim.

    This test does not tell the true gas/petrol level as petrol has a lower surface tension than water, but it gives a measure that is possible to compare and a test safe to do in a kitchen...And it does not tell if it is the right level according to factory specifications, it simply tells the level that was in my carb. 

    My engine is 45ci, carb is a DLX 63 with a 13/16 venturi. High speed needle was open 2 turns and low speed needle 3 turns (there about). My bike was easy to start, no flat spots over the revolution range and choke was not needed after the first start in the morning...But I never have had particular good gas mileage...

    Last modified: 17 Aug 2017 6:25 PM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 17 Aug 2017 6:18 PM
    Reply # 5034566 on 5032693

    Thank you Carl Eric for the information.

    My engine runs bad at low speed. The spark plugs are black that indicates too much gasoline. My bowl fills up at all. The height of the gasoline is also easy to check by the bowl with float disassembling from the carburetor. A stop at the bottom of the bowl and replace the bowl back on the fuel pipe. Open petcock and look at how high the gasoline increases.

  • 17 Aug 2017 7:57 PM
    Reply # 5034668 on 5032693

    I could only do a test that was safe in the kitchen...

    Flooding might indicate a untight float valve. There is several details that is important to get a float valve in a DLX tight, as the needle is moving about much more than a common modern float valve assembly where the needle is guided way more precise. Most common mistake is to make the seat too wide and deep. The thinner the seat is, the easier it is for the valve needle to assume a position that will seal. 

    There is different ways but this is how I do it. First of all the needle tip cone must be pristine, sharp, smooth and shining. I set it up in a clamped down cordless drill, support the needle tip on a block of wood to steady the needle wobble. Set the cordless on slow speed. Shape the cone with a high speed Dremel with a dremel flexible Square Edge Rubberized Polishing Wheel. Be light on the hand! it is impregnated with abrasive and way effective! and polish it with a Dremel lump wheel. A tip for the rubber wheel is to center and square it by, with the dremel at speed, grind it against a spinning common grinding wheel.

    Grind the bowl seat tower down flat with a Dremel flat ended grinding stone, until there is almost only a sharp edge left of the old seat, 1 mm seat is wide in my opinion. Even better if the thin new seat is convex so the needle can tilt a bit and still seal. A convex bowl seat is achieved by swinging the needle in the seat, with finger pressure, round and round in a circle for a fair bit of time. (a pen ink tube can extend the needle top) That will shape the seat well enough. Nothing coarser than a bit of cigarette ash should/might be used as grinding compound. Cigarette ash mixed with a little spit and crushed to a fine paste with the backside of a spoon or similar. 

    The carb is vibrating hash and violently during run...The float must never risk touch the bowl sides or carb center stem. The float fork is better not have too much slop on the shaft, the fork side play must not be too big, the valve ball must fit in the cup with not much up-and-down or side-to-side play. Too much up-and-down play there might risk starving the engine from gas as the valve can't lift high enough to let gas in fast enough. 

    After a while (one summer) the float action has pounded the needle and seat deeper so a readjustment of the float level might be needed. A light float wear less on the seat than a heavy float. 

    Last modified: 01 Sep 2017 1:37 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 18 Aug 2017 6:46 PM
    Reply # 5036265 on 5032693

    That was the next thing I wanted to ask Carl Eric, but the answer is already there. The gasoline increases fairly fast to float height and then drips very slowly by and runs entirely full. So the valve will need work. Thanks for the detailed description.

  • 21 Aug 2017 11:02 AM
    Reply # 5039992 on 5032693
    Deleted user

    I have had lots of problems with my carburetor leaking and took it with me on a recent trip to Australia. We put it on Mark Lesek's bike in Tasmania and it seemed to behave but run real rich. Then I took it to Jim Parker Indian in Melbourne. They checked it for me (see video) and adjusted the float almost to the top with no gap in fact they used the regular measurement as the fuel level not the float level. I have yet to try this on my bike but will give it a go (it might make sense a higher float = more pressure on the needle?). They also found the reason it was running way to rich, the needle was not long enough leaving the fuel orifice still slightly open when the needle thread bottomed out.

    fuel bowl test with gasoline

    https://youtu.be/KnjTUPYh178


    small portion of my ride around Tasmania

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viHe7iMMky4

    Last modified: 21 Aug 2017 11:02 AM | Deleted user
  • 27 Aug 2017 2:09 PM
    Reply # 5051035 on 5032693

    Thanks Peter for your comment about the length of the needle. I have the low speed needle fully wound to the right, and then the engine  ran  already a lot quieter. So my needle is also too short. I'm going to still try with a longer needle to see if it is even better.

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