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For the preservation and enjoyment of 1928 to 1931 Indian Scout Motocycles
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switching back to RH shifter

  • 21 Aug 2017 12:39 PM
    Message # 5040216

    I want to return my gearbox to RH shift, and I thought it would be simply a matter of pulling the cap on the tower and reversing it.  But now I see the bellcrank operating lever is not straight, it is angled ...with the LH shift it is angled towards the output side (drive chain side) of the gearbox, if I simply reverse the cap then the bellcrank operating lever is angled towards the input (or clutch) side and won't mesh with the shift fork bellcrank.

    So my question is (and I couldn't find this discussed on here), reversing the bellcrank operating lever is an additional step I need to do, or is there more to it?

    Thanks!


    Last modified: 21 Aug 2017 12:40 PM | Harry Roberts
  • 21 Aug 2017 12:45 PM
    Reply # 5040217 on 5040216

    addendum.... the bushings and the bellcrank operating lever are stuck to the cap... so perhaps tapping them out will help, but I think the bellcrank operating lever will still have to be reversed, and it appears to be riveted?

  • 22 Aug 2017 7:57 AM
    Reply # 5041388 on 5040216
    Tim Raindle (Administrator)

    Yes Harry, you need to reverse the crank. It is locked in place by a tapered cotter pin which you will need to remove, and replace. 

  • 22 Aug 2017 8:13 AM
    Reply # 5041419 on 5040216

    I am almost certain it is just a matter of turn the bellcrank operating lever (BOL) around to use for left hand or normal right hand shift. There is at least 2 versions of fixing the BOL to the shaft. One is with a key and a riveted pin straight through the center of the BOL eye. The other version has a 7,94mm 5/16" pin that sits off center of the BOL eye. 

    There is complications of course. Wear and slop.

    The tiny key and pin in the first version is wearing fast and the shift stick gets a large play at the end. One remedy is to custom fit a new key and custom fit a new pin, I would avoid try to drill a larger hole and fit a larger pin, the hardened shaft is tough as nails!

    On the other version, the 5/16" pin is cylindrical, same diameter on top and bottom. A portion of the pin is ground flat and slanted. The shaft also has a flat portion. The slant is meant to wedge and lock the shaft and lever solid, and the pin is riveted at one end to secure it in place. 

    But with that long shift stick there is a tremendous point load put on that flat portion on the pin, so the pin wear V-shaped pits in it, and the gear shift lever starts to slop. Because of the type of wear there is no idea to try to pound the pin in further to stop the play in the BOL, the only remedy is to make a new pin. 

    Because of the great forces, vibration and grit, the hardened shaft also wear at the edges of it's flat portion so that tends to be a bit rounded, or convex, so even with a new pin the BOL usually have a bit of play still! The flat portion in the shaft then has to be reground in many cases, before you have a BOL that is solid on the shaft. The flats must be perfect. Because of the large exchange between the long shift stick, and the short BOL, a very very tiny play will feel a lot at the end of the gear shift stick.

    Last modified: 22 Aug 2017 8:39 AM | Carl-Erik Renquist
  • 22 Aug 2017 10:37 AM
    Reply # 5041693 on 5040216

    Thanks Tim and Carl-Erik, that's pretty much what I deduced on further inspection!  This one has the pin off center on the bellcrank operating lever, and it appears when the switch to LH shift was made the pin was peened on both ends.

    Oh well, has to be done.... I don't think I can shift with my left hand!

  • 22 Aug 2017 10:47 AM
    Reply # 5041701 on 5040216

    Oh... and I think Greer's sells that pin, part #28B81, 5/16 x 1.13".  I'll measure up the one that's coming out.

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